Standing in front of the sun cream display, almost everyone looks at the same thing: the number. SPF 30, SPF 50, SPF 50+. And that’s what they base their decision on.
The problem is that the SPF factor only tells you how much protection you have, not whether that product will work on your skin. Two sun creams with the same SPF 50 can behave completely differently: one leaves your face shiny after two hours, whilst the other you don’t even notice. One stings if you have rosacea, whilst the other doesn’t.
What makes the difference are three things that almost nobody pays attention to: the type of filter, the texture and the finish. That’s what this guide is about.
Mineral filter or chemical filter
It is the choice that has the greatest impact on the outcome, and the one that is least clearly explained on the packaging.
Mineral (or physical) filters
They have been zinc oxide o titanium dioxide. They remain on the skin, forming a layer that reflects and scatters radiation.
- In favour: They start to provide protection as soon as you apply them, with no waiting time. They are best tolerated by reactive skin because they do not penetrate the epidermis, so there is less chance of irritation. Zinc oxide also has a soothing effect, which is beneficial for reddened skin.
- Against: the classic whitish cast. New formulas have reduced this significantly thanks to micronised particles, but it is still noticeable on medium and dark skin tones. They tend to be denser.
- Who is it for: sensitive skin, atopic skin, rosacea, children’s skin, skin that has recently undergone treatment (peels, laser treatments, acids).
Chemical (or organic) filters
They absorb radiation and convert it into heat, which is then released by the skin.
- In favour: Much lighter textures; they blend in seamlessly and do not alter your skin tone. These are the ones that make it possible to wear sun cream every day under your make-up.
- Against: They take between 15 and 20 minutes to become active before exposure. And on very sensitive skin, they can cause a stinging sensation, particularly around the eyes.
- Who is it for: normal skin, oily skin, everyday urban use, under make-up, sport.
Combined filters
Most high-end formulas combine the two to make the most of each one’s benefits: the lightness of the chemical formula with the strengthening properties of the mineral formula. Unless you have particularly sensitive skin, these are usually the most comfortable option.
Watch out for the most common confusion: A mineral filter is not the same as sun cream, even though the terms are often used interchangeably. We explain this in detail in sunblock or sun cream.
Texture and finish
A mouthguard you don’t like ends up in a drawer, and a mouthguard in a drawer offers zero protection. Texture isn’t just an aesthetic whim; it’s what determines whether you stick to using it.
| Texture | Sensation | It goes well with |
|---|---|---|
| Gel / gel-cream | Very light, quick-drying, dry finish | Oily skin, humid weather, men |
| Fluid / emulsion | Lightweight, natural finish | Normal and combination skin, daily use |
| Cream | Nourishing, with moisturising properties | Dry skin, mature skin, body |
| Stick | Solid, direct application | Reapply over make-up, around the eyes, nose and ears |
| Spray / mist | Very light, patchy coverage | Body, quick reapplication (never use as a single layer on the face) |
| In colour | Provides coverage and evens out the skin tone | Replace your foundation, conceal any redness |
The finish is chosen separately: mate if your T-zone is shiny, glossy or satin if you have dry skin and the matte finish emphasises your fine lines.
What your skin needs
Oily skin and acne-prone skin
What you’re looking for: chemical or combined filter, texture gel or gel-cream, label oil-free y non-comedogenic, matt finish.
What to avoid: thick creams, occlusive textures and mineral oils listed near the top of the INCI list.
The key word is non-comedogenic: this means that the formula has been tested to ensure it does not clog pores. It is not a guaranteed promise, but it is the most reliable initial indicator you have. If you want to understand exactly what that label measures and why it is not foolproof, we explain this in What is comedogenicity?.
A counterintuitive point: Oily skin also needs moisturising. Many mattifying products can be too drying, and dehydrated skin responds by producing even more sebum. If this happens to you, check how to care for oily skin.
Sensitive, atopic or rosacea-prone skin
What you’re looking for: 100% mineral filter, cream or liquid texture, fragrance-free, alcohol-free, with a short list of ingredients. Zinc oxide on its own is the safest option.
What to avoid: pure chemical filters, added fragrance, and alcohol-based sprays.
If your skin reacts with redness or a stinging sensation, this mineral isn’t just a good choice: it’s the right one. And if you’ve noticed reactions that you can’t attribute to a specific product, in how to avoid make-up allergies We explain how to identify the ingredient in question.
Dry skin and mature skin
What you’re looking for: texture cream, a luminous finish, and formulations containing moisturising active ingredients: hyaluronic acid, glycerine and ceramides.
What to avoid: drying gels and matt finishes, which accentuate fine lines.
For mature skin, sun cream is no longer just about prevention. It is, by far, the cosmetic product with the most evidence to support its effectiveness in preventing wrinkles and sagging skin. It’s worth looking for formulas that combine sun filters with active treatment ingredients. When it comes to moisturisers, look for the following in the INCI list: glycerine in cosmetics.
Combination skin
What you’re looking for: liquid or gel-cream natural finish, combination filter.
Rather than buying two products, it’s usually more practical to use one with a medium coverage and top it up with mattifying powder just on the T-zone mid-morning. If you’ve never quite understood the difference between one type of powder and another, we explain it in compact, translucent powder.
Further specific guidelines can be found at how to look after combination skin.
Skin with patches or melasma
What you’re looking for: mineral filter with protection against visible light, which usually comes in the format in colour (Iron oxide pigments are what block visible light.) Always use SPF 50+, without exception.
This is the situation where sun cream ceases to be a preventative measure and becomes a treatment: without it, any depigmenting product you use is of no use. We explain this in melasma and chloasma and in sunspots.
Your skin type matters too
Your skin type (oily, dry, combination) determines the texture. Your skin type determines the factor.
These are two different things and are often confused: you can have very oily skin and still get sunburnt in twenty minutes. The amount of melanin you produce determines how much protection you need, and this is measured using the Fitzpatrick scale. If you don’t know your skin type, start by the Fitzpatrick scale or by What is skin phototype?.
As a quick guide: skin types I to III, always use SPF 50+. Skin types IV to VI, use at least SPF 30 on a daily basis and SPF 50 when out in the sun. And if you want to know what that number actually means, What is the sun protection factor?.
Now it’s time to choose
Once you’ve decided on the type of filter and the texture, choosing a specific product is straightforward.
We have compiled our seven recommendations for high-end plots, with options for each of the scenarios covered in this guide, at the best sun creams for this summer. And you can see the full catalogue of plots in the shop.
One last thing: whatever you do after sunbathing, your skin needs to recover. What to use and why, after-sun or aloe vera.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is mineral or chemical sun cream better? Neither offers better protection than the other at the same SPF. Mineral sunscreen is preferable for sensitive, atopic or rosacea-prone skin as it is less irritating. Chemical sunscreen is more convenient for everyday use as it does not leave a white cast. Most current formulas combine the two.
Does non-comedogenic sun cream prevent acne? It prevents the formula from blocking the pores, which is one of the causes of breakouts, but it does not treat acne. It is essential to prevent it from getting worse, not a treatment.
Can I use the same sun cream on my face and body? You can, but it’s not ideal. Body products tend to be thicker and more comedogenic for the face, whilst facial products are too expensive to cover the whole body.
How can I stop mineral sun cream from leaving my face looking white? Look for products containing micronised zinc oxide; apply in thin layers, allowing each layer to absorb before applying the next, or switch to a mineral foundation in a shade that matches your skin tone.