The Fitzpatrick scale was developed in 1975 to help dermatologists predict how the skin reacts to the sun. Its creatorDr. Thomas B. FitzpatrickThe aim was to improve medical treatments based on skin colour and behaviour.
Today, this scale is key to customising everything from cosmetics to aesthetic treatments. A fascinating story that connects science, beauty and health.
What is the Fitzpatrick scale?
The Fitzpatrick scale is a dermatological classification that describes how human skin reacts to sun exposure. It was developed in 1975 by Dr. Thomas B. FitzpatrickHarvard University's chief of dermatology, as a tool for predicting the risk of sunburn depending on the colour and behaviour of the skin against ultraviolet (UV) rays.
Unlike the usual cosmetic categories - such as dry, oily or sensitive skin - this scale is not based on texture or appearance, but on the skin's biological response to unprotected sunlight. In particular, it measures two key factors:
- Propensity to burn (erythema) after an initial exposure.
- Ability to tan (pigmentation) after repeated exposures.
On the basis of these reactions, Fitzpatrick proposed six skin phototypesnumbered from I to VI. Phototype I corresponds to very light skins, which always burn and never tan, while phototype VI represents very dark skins, which do not burn and have a stable and continuous pigmentation.
Although it was initially designed to guide the use of medical treatments - such as phototherapy or dermatological lasers - its precision and simplicity have made it an essential tool in the treatment of skin diseases. reference standard in cosmetics, aesthetics and advanced facial care.
Today, the Fitzpatrick scale is part of skin analysis routines in clinics, spas, and also in cosmetic diagnostic devices with artificial intelligence. Its use allows products and treatments to be tailored with greater safety, personalisation and efficacy, which is especially important in areas of high sun exposure.
Table of phototypes according to Fitzpatrick scale
| Phototype | Skin colour | Reaction to the sun | Tanning |
| I | Very fair, freckled | Always burns, never tans | Null |
| II | Clara | Burns easily, tans poorly | Slight |
| III | Intermediate, beige or slightly olive | Can burn, tans progressively | Moderate |
| IV | Light brown or olive | Rarely burns, tans easily | Intense |
| V | Morena | Very rarely burns, tans deeply | Very intense |
| VI | Very dark | Never burns, always pigmented | Permanent |
Practical note: although high phototypes (V and VI) appear to be more "resistant", that is does not mean that they do not need sun protection. All skin types can suffer from photoageing or pigmentation.
Impact on dermatology and cosmetics of the Fitzpatrick scale
When Thomas B. Fitzpatrick developed his scale in 1975, he probably did not imagine that it would end up influencing not only operating theatres, but also dressing tables around the world. What began as a medical tool for assessing the risk of sunburn eventually evolved into an essential tool for the diagnosis and treatment of sunburn. essential basis for skin care customisation.
In dermatology, the Fitzpatrick scale was a paradigm shift.
Until the introduction of this scale, many medical and aesthetic treatments were applied in a generalised way, without taking into account the influence of skin colour or sensitivity. The scale made it possible:
- Adjusting the intensity of laser, pulsed light or acid therapiesreducing the risk of side effects such as hyperpigmentation or spots on the skin.
- Better assess skin cancer riskespecially in patients with low phototypes.
- To study the efficacy of dermatological products and procedures according to skin type..
On this basis, a safer, predictive and patient-tailored approach was consolidated and continues to guide clinical decisions around the world today.
In cosmetics, Fitzpatrick was the forerunner of personalised beauty.
The leap into the cosmetics sector was a natural one. If fair skin burns easily and more pigmented skin responds better to the sun, they will also react differently to the sun's rays. active ingredients, textures, perfumes or intensive treatments. This is how the beauty industry started to use the Fitzpatrick scale for:
- Formulate more targeted sunscreenswith filters adapted to each phototype.
- Designing safe cosmetic routinesfor example, avoiding aggressive retinoids in skins with a low tolerance threshold.
- Optimise the fixation of perfumes or the behaviour of products according to environment and skin type..
Brands such as Lancôme, Shiseido or Estée Lauder have incorporated facial diagnostic algorithms that use modern variants of this scale to recommend more accurate products.
In the specific case of areas such as Lanzarotewhere the sun is a year-round protagonist, Fitzpatrick's scale becomes even more relevant for residents and tourists alike: it helps to better choose which product to apply, when and how.
What exactly does the Fitzpatrick scale measure?
Although it is often confused with a "skin tone scale", the The Fitzpatrick scale does not measure colour per se.but the skin's reaction to exposure to the sun without SPF protection. That is: how the skin behaves in the face of ultraviolet rays, especially in terms of burning (erythema) and pigmentation (tanning).
It assesses two essential variables:
- Tendency to burnhow long it takes for your skin to redden after a short exposure to the sun (15-30 min without protection).
- Ability to tanhow it reacts after repeated exposures; whether it develops a long-lasting tan or if it quickly reverts to its base tone.
On the basis of these physiological responses, six are classified skin phototypesI to VI. But be careful: the phototype does not change over time. Even if you tan more in summer, your natural way of reacting to the sun remains the same and is genetically determined.
This approach is based on the activity of the melaninmelanin, the pigment that protects the skin against UV rays. The more functional melanin your skin has, the more resistant it is to the sun and the lower the risk of sunburn.
¿Qué no does the scale measure?
- Not a catalogue of skin tones such as those used in make-up. You can have fair skin and be phototype III if you tan easily.
- Does not test for cosmetic sensitivity and allergies. just because your skin doesn't burn doesn't mean it tolerates retinol or glycolic acid well.
- Does not replace a dermatological assessment. is a guideline, not a medical diagnosis.
How is your phototype determined?
It is usually determined by dermatological questionnaires that ask, for example:
- What colour is your untanned skin?
- What happens when you expose yourself to the sun for 30 minutes without protection?
- How does your skin react after several days of exposure?
- Do you have freckles, spots or very fair skin even in summer?
Today, many facial diagnostic devices (such as those used by luxury brands in retail outlets) use the Fitzpatrick scale as part of their algorithms. Some apps even analyse your face with the camera to estimate your phototype automatically.
Current uses of the Fiztpatrick scale
Although the Fitzpatrick scale was born in a clinical context, its application has been extended to fields as diverse as aesthetic dermatology, cosmetic formulation, perfumery or even technology applied to skin diagnosis.
Today, understanding your phototype can make the difference between an effective beauty routine... and one that does more harm than good.
1. Personalisation of facial and body care
Knowing your phototype helps you make better choices:
- SunscreensA skin type I needs SPF 50+ with physical filters; a skin type IV can opt for SPF 30 with lighter chemical filters.
- Depigmenting routineshigh phototypes (V-VI) are more prone to develop post-inflammatory spotsTherefore, special care must be taken with acids such as glycolic or retinol.
- Cabin treatmentsThe intensity of procedures such as lasers, pulsed light, peels or dermabrasion should be adjusted to the phototype to avoid side effects.
Practical exampleIf you have phototype II and live in Mallorca, you should use SPF50+ all year round, not just in summer. On the other hand, a skin phototype IV could reduce to SPF30 in winter... but never without protection.
2. Selection of make-up products and colour
Although the phototype does not directly define the undertone (warm, neutral, cool), it does condition it:
- The level of coverage you need (skin types I tend to have redness and may prefer foundations with more corrective pigment).
- The most flattering pigment type (e.g. vivid corals may "disappear" in high phototypes if there is insufficient contrast).
- The duration of colourOn oily and darker skins, certain products may oxidise earlier or lose intensity.
3. Perfumery adapted to climate and skin type
It may seem unexpected, but your phototype may also influence how a perfume behaves on your skin:
- Fair and dry skin (I-II) usually has less fixation because the fragrance evaporates faster.
- More pigmented skins with higher lipid content (IV-VI) retain better olfactory notes, especially warm or woody ones.
That is why, if you feel that a perfume "doesn't last long".If it is not a problem with the product, it may not be a problem with the product, but with your skin type and its relationship to the ambient temperature and humidity.
In hot climates where evaporation is more rapid, you can reinforce your fragrance with scented body lotions or choose to eaux de parfum instead of eaux de toilette.
4. Avoid adverse or unnecessary effects
Knowing your phototype protects you against typical mistakes such as:
- Using too strong active ingredients on sun-sensitive skin.
- Believing that you don't need sun protection because you have "brown skin".
- Suffer spots or lesions because no one explained to you that your skin it does react to the sun, but sometimes at the wrong time..
5. Digital skin diagnosis
Today, many luxury brands and dermo-aesthetic centres are using smart devices that integrate the Fitzpatrick scale as a parameter of analysis. It is also commonly seen in facial diagnostic apps who recommend suitable products, both in physical shops and online.
At Sam Parfums, you can find brands that already use this approach, such as Lancôme, Shiseido or ClarinsCheck out our catalogue for a variety of skin types, climates and exposures, with routines designed for different skin types, climates and exposures. cosmetics, perfumes and accessoriesand take advantage of our discounts!